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| Climb Every Mountain
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| Not content with ascending familiar terrain, some daring rock climbers prefer to tackle the great unknown. Flash climbing demands its own particular skill set—and that includes a steady set of nerves.
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There is a certain kind of rock climber who loves going on blind dates, a person for whom there is nothing as attractive or compelling as an unfamiliar mountain terrain.
“On-sight climbing is attempting to climb a route on your first attempt without prior knowledge of the moves or the size or shape of the holds. If you have prior knowledge of the holds or the moves because you have talked to someone about it, it’s no longer an on-sight attempt, it’s a flash attempt,” says Australian climber Mark Baker, who resides in Mount Victoria, (www.climbing.com.au) as he explains both the process and the sport’s lexicon.
“If you succeed on your first attempt then you have either on-sighted it or flashed it. If you fail to on-sight or flash the route and then succeed on a subsequent attempt you have red- pointed the route.”
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On-sight climbing represents one of the more challenging aspects of a sport that already demands much from its participants—a successful on-sight climb tests both the skill and endurance of those confident enough to attempt it.
“On-sight climbing favors experience over raw strength,” comments Dr. Phil B. Watts, a professor of exercise physiology at Northern Michigan University, and author of Rock Climbing, a highly regarded instructional text.
“The mental process of problem solving to determine the most efficient body position and movements for each bit of progress becomes very important.”
If you think it sounds like potentially slow going, you’re right.
A successful on-sight climb is one conducted without a fall, or re-start. Each move must be carefully considered, and the terrain intensely scrutinized. And that means repeatedly stopping to access the situation, a physically challenging maneuver.
“Progress will typically be slower,” explains Dr.Watts. “The climber has no prior knowledge about the route. Specific body positions and movements necessary for success must be figured out during the ascent. This will place more emphasis on muscular endurance, as the climber sustains positions while planning movements for the route ahead.”
To combat fatigue, Dr. Watts suggests lowering your arm below the level of the heart to increase blood flow and oxygen delivery during pauses and rests. This simple little maneuver assists in recovery and helps maintain focus.
Terrain varies over the course of an outdoor route with both difficult and easy sections.
Calculating expenditure of energy for each segment of the ascent and the amount of rest needed to complete the climb is a science in itself.
On-sight climbing is a very precision-oriented activity, not only in terms of movements but how muscles are utilized.
“Physiologically, isometric, or static-muscle endurance will be more important during on-sights than when climbing over familiar terrain,” notes Dr.Watts. “A heavier climber, whether by body fat or by high muscle mass, is sometimes at a disadvantage. Body weight is often supported by small muscle groups, especially those that control hand and finger position.”
In a review article for the European Journal of Applied Physiology, Dr.Watts reported that contrary to popular belief, elite rock climbers are usually small, compact individuals with a low percentage of body fat, not the tall, rangy athletes most people envision.
His athlete profile also lists upper-body strength as a key component of a climber’s make-up. The small muscles on the inside of the lower arm, the forearm flexors, are usually the first to succumb to lactic acid build-up.
Reach for the Top
If you aspire to rock climbing, see how well you match this athlete profile prepared by Dr. Phil Watts for the European Journal of Applied Physiology:
- Small stature and low body mass.
- Low per cent of body fat.
- High upper-body strength to body weight ratio.
- High dynamic and isometric muscular endurance.
- High upper body power.
- Moderate to high aerobic power.
Climbing is essentially an anaerobic activity characterized by brief bursts of intense muscle work. Strength training, with particular attention on the forearm flexors, deltoids and rhomboids will ensure a better climb.
Dr. Watts also recommends varying your routes: “Gain experience by spending a lot of time climbing on different types of rock and terrain, and learn to rest while you are on the rock.”
Along with physical strength, those attempting an on-sight climb need flexibility. Having good range of motion improves technique, which complements power.
The more moves a climber is capable of making, the more efficient the ascent and less fatiguing the climb.
Climbing is a symmetrical sport, with movements exhibiting an almost sculptured form.
How well a climber maintains discipline in the face of unknown terrain is the surest way of measuring skill.
“Anyone can try on-sight climbing. The grade of the route is irrelevant so it is possible to on-sight the very easiest of routes,” says Baker.
“The one piece of advice I would give someone preparing to on-sight a route is: Prepare a plan while you are observing the route from the ground but when you get up there be willing and prepared to modify your plan quickly!”
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